Shivapuri trek

We started out early one morning with our guide to the outskirts of Kathmandu. A short car ride into the foothills took us to the end of the road, where it turned into a flight of ancient stone steps. We didn't know it at the time, but these were the first of many seemingly endless steps we would encounter throughout our four day trek. At other times our route would consist of more moderate to very steep footpaths, which is still the only access to some of the homes and villages we passed through.

Our trail also took us on dirt roads that have been constructed in some of the more remote regions by the Nepal military. Most of these have very little vehicle traffic, indeed many are impassible to anything but a 4x4 or motorcycle.

The locals appear to still live a mostly traditional, subsistence style of life. This picture of a family drying grain and their laundry on the front porch appears timeless, except for the modern motorcycle.

For noon we stopped at this wayside restaurant, where we rested our legs and had a bowl of ramen.

The water supply to many of the villages is nothing more than a spring fed pipe like this one by the side of the road, where a woman is washing her clothes.

We continued our climb to the entrance of Shivapuri Park. This large protected area has been set aside to preserve a major watershed for Kathmandu.

Inside the park, we left behind the smog of Kathmandu, and began to see the many terraced hillsides. Other areas were still in the wild state with a mix of hardwoods, a few pines, and large rhododendron trees, some in bloom.

Our first stop was the "town" of Chisapani, which is nothing more than a few guesthouses, catering to trekkers.

By outward appearances, our lodge looked pretty deluxe. Inside it was a different story, but we lucked out with a top floor room with a view, and a private bath.








Here I am, resting my tired body on our balcony. There is a good view of the high Himalayas from here, unfortunately we never saw more than their outlines through the persistent haze they were shrouded in. All the same the lower elevations are beautiful, and the cool, clean air was a very welcome relief from the heat and humidity of India.

Pashupatinath Hindu Temple

Pashupatinath is an important temple located on the Bagmati River on the outskirts of Kathmandu. It is a large complex where many cremations are held on the river banks. When we were there in April the river was little more than a trickle and like all the rivers in the populated areas, it had the unforgettable smell of sewage and garbage. A smell that has become all to familiar too us. In spite of the pollution, it is considered a holy river, and people bathe here to purify themselves.

Family relatives of the deceased also return here a year after their death to feast by the river.

Sadhus, or wandering monks, are at the last stage in their quest for a release from the wheel of life, which is the cycle of birth and reincarnation. Sadhus have renounced all material and sexual attachments, and live off the offerings of others. Maybe my small offering in exchange for a picture of these two will add to my good karma.

The temple itself sits above the river and is surrounded by many smaller shrines.

This shrine had some amazing architectural details.

Just upriver from the temple there are cave dwellings built into the hillside. I understand these are for monks who come here for retreat and meditation.

One area had a whole series of identical shrines in a row. This gives an interesting double mirror effect when you look through the first, down the line.

Unlike the temples in Southern India, we were unable to enter the temple walls, where a Hindu only sign is posted at the entry doors. We were able to catch a glimpse into the courtyard of the rear end of the huge statue of Shiva's gold plated bull he rides.