Life on the canals

The people who live along the canals literally have the water right at their doorstep.  This is where the women scrub their clothes, and then slap them on a flat rock.  It is also where the pots and pans are washed.  The family too, bathes in the canal. 

The canals are often surrounded with miles of rice fields. This woman is drying rice or some other grain in front of her house.

Wild ducks were abundant in large flocks. We also noticed some people had fenced off small areas in front of their homes where they kept captive ducks.

Tourism is big business in Alleppey as witnessed by the hundreds of houseboats docked along the canal. More than once we passed boat building drydocks where they were building more. Fortunately there are so many miles of canals and lakes that we did not run into any houseboat traffic jams.

Boats of Alleppey

Alleppey, in the state of Kerala, is sometimes referred to as the Venice of India due to the seemingly endless maze of canals and lakes in and around the surrounding area.  I have not been to Venice, but I think the similarities must end there.  Though more laid back than other places, this is still definitely tropical India with it's rice paddies, banana plantations and the streets full of crazy, honking traffic and the occasional cow in the road. 

Because of it's charm and beauty, Kerala has become a very popular tourist destination. They come to view the wildlife in the sanctuaries, trek in the hills or just relax on some of the best tropical beaches in India. One of the main attractions however is a cruise in the canals and backwaters around Alleppey and Kochin.

We were surprised and a little disappointed when we first saw the boat that had been scheduled for the three of us.  We had hoped for a smaller, more intimate traditional boat with a thatched sunroof.  It turned out however, to be a good choice, with our very friendly Captain and the ability to sit or stretch out under the shaded rooftop.

The ultimate cruise is an overnighter on one of the picturesque houseboats which range in size from this modest one to three story floating luxury mini hotels, where you have A/C bedrooms, and are pampered and treated to a freshly caught fish dinner.

The traditional wooden boats come in all sizes, from the big floating houseboats to the small canoes like this one docked under a magnificent Banyan tree, though more often than not they did not have outboard motors attached. Because the only access to many of the houses is by foot path or water, people who live on the canals use these canoes as their main mode of transport.  There are also the public ferries which are always packed with people, though I have to say some of these boats did not look very seaworthy.

We saw quite a few of these medium sized working boats loaded down with everything from cooking gas tanks, to bricks and sand, some loaded down with so much that it looked as though the slightest wave would sink them.  These boats typically did not have motors, but were propelled by human pole power.

High in the Nilgiri Hills

As we continued our climb, we had more photo ops of the landscape which our group took full advantage of.

The Nilgiri Hills were originally inhabited by the Toda tribe, of which there are still a few existing villages, though I understand their numbers are diminishing. They have their own religion and have unique thatched temples.

When we reached the summit we had a fantastic view looking out over the valleys below.  Hanuman (the hindu god in the likeness of a monkey) apparently also likes this view as he gazes out over the landscape from what the locals call monkey rock.

We had a couple of very friendly local dogs accompany us on our hike. This one also appreciated the view, who without any hesitation sought out the most precarious overlook to settle down on.

Passing through the village on our way back to Ooty we passed this boy who was having a lot of fun skating down the steep streets on his homemade cart made of sticks and ball bearings for wheels.

Ooty village life

Our hike took us through a small village, full of  houses with red tiled roofs and neatly painted with some very vivid colors. 

Of course, no village would be complete without a backyard Shrine or two.

A lot of our produce in Tamil Nadu comes from this fertile area in the Nilgiri hills around Ooty, particularly the cold weather crops like spinach and lettuce.   The whole family gets involved with the farm work, while the little ones keep themselves amused playing in the dirt.

These two men were turning the soil over by hand with pitchforks. What you don't see in this picture are the ten or so acres that they had already completed on this terraced hillside.

Our group stopped at the local hotel (restaurant) for a bite of lunch, rice and several curries served on the traditional banana leaf. It is also the custom in Southern India to eat with your fingers, using only your right hand. A bit awkward at first, but you soon get used to it.

The cooks come up with some yummy meals in dark kitchens like this, cooking over a pit fire.

As we headed out of the village I spotted these kids that I had to have a picture of. I was pleasantly surprised when after they posed for us, that they did not ask us for 5-10 rupees, or a bit of candy.

A hike in the Ooty countryside

In Ooty we stayed at the YWCA which is an old brewery that has been turned into low budget accommodations for men and women.  We were impressed by the extensive grounds and well maintained private rooms.  December is the off season in Ooty and it can get cold.  When we woke up in the morning we were more more than happy to bundle up in our jackets and scarves.  I believe it was the first time in the last year and a half in India that we were actually cold enough to need something other than shorts and sandals.

After a short drive to the edge of town, we started out with a guide and a small group of tourists from around the globe for a hike through the countryside to a high rocky hilltop with some fantastic views. The first leg of our walk felt as though we could have been back in Ireland, with it's green rolling hills and a shepherd tending a flock of sheep.

I soon lost that impression as we wandered into a grove of Eucalyptus trees where the local tribeswomen were collecting the leaves that had fallen to the ground. We were told they would take them to a small factory where they would be distilled into essential oils.

Many of the outbuildings walls were constructed of mud held together by a stick lattice, and palm thatched roofs over a plastic tarp.

The diversity of this landscape struck me as we emerged from the Eucalyptus grove on to the rolling, neatly trimmed bushes of a large tea plantation. We were able to see the women workers trimming the plants with an ingenious set of clippers attached to a steel box, and throwing the cut leaves over their shoulders into a large basket they carried on their backs. Interestingly enough, the guide told us that pictures were forbidden. I believe the plantation owners did not want the women to be distracted from their work, asking for money from the tourists for having their pictures taken.

Toy train 2

Halfway up the mountain we stopped once again to take on more water,  and the passengers were able to grab a snack and a cup of coffee.   

Meanwhile the train crew grabbed their wrenches and hammers to make a few adjustments to the drive system.

At this station we were overrun by a group of Monkeys, waiting for us to see what food they could get from us.  Fortunately this lot was not overly aggressive, and were content to take what people offered them.  In other places we have been the monkeys can get very aggressive and grab food right out of your hand, or out of  the pack on your back, and hiss and snarl at you if they don't get the banana you happen to be eating.

At the sound of the train whistle, we climbed back on board and continued our journey up the hill to the high tea country and the town of Ooty.

Toy train to Ooty

Over the Christmas break this year we planned a two week train trip to see a wide variety of the landscape and people of India.  Our first leg of our journey to the Nilgiri hills, was spent in an overnight sleeper car, where it connects to the famous narrow gauge toy train to the hill station of Ooty.     

The leisurely trip up the mountain takes 5-6 hours with frequent stops for the steam engine to take on water, or just to build up steam.

I had never thought of Casey Jones as a character covered with grease and soot, but if this engineer is any indication, it's a messy job. Looking at the engine, I did have the thought it was very possible it was not going to be able to push us to the top of the mountain (the engine is behind the passenger cars).  Despite my one moment of hesitation, off we went in a cloud of steam.

Here's what Wikipedia says about the train: The 'Nilagiri Passenger' train covers a distance of 26 mi (41.8 km),^[2] travels through 208 curves, 16 tunnels,^[2] and 250 bridges.^[2] The uphill journey takes around 290 minutes (4.8 hours), and the downhill journey takes 215 minutes (3.6 hours) It has the steepest track in Asia with a maximum gradient of 8.33%.^[2]

While climbing the steepest grades, a unique rack and pinion system is used. This consists of a toothed track down the center of the line, and a large gear on the bottom of the engine, which propels the train up the hill.  


It is a distinct contrast travelling from the flat tropical plains up into the very beautiful mountains of the Nilgiri hills, with it's cool climate and cascading waterfalls.  During British rule, the town of Ooty was established as a tea and produce hub.  It also served as a favorite retreat for the British elite in the summer months to escape the scorching heat of the plains.  Today it is easy to see why it remains a popular destination for people from around the world.