Koyambedu Market

The Koyambedu market is one of the largest wholesale fruit and vegetable markets in Asia, with seemingly endless rows of stalls each with basketful's of produce or neatly stacked pyramids of apples, tomatoes, coconuts, artichokes, or rows of bananas and plantains still on the stalk. A person could walk for miles, in the several hours I spent here, I saw less than half the complex.

There is a separate building that houses a large flower market. The scene here is very lively, with the vendors, sitting on their raised platforms among huge piles of cut flowers enticing the customers to buy with their loud calls, each trying to outdo the other, or weighing out customer's purchases on hand held brass scales. It is worth walking through just for the many fragrances as you walk by the jasmine or rose vendors.

There is a big demand for flowers in India. You encounter street vendors everywhere, especially in the vicinity of the shrines where women string together long braids of flowers for offerings or you often see women wearing jasmine flowers in their hair.

The market area was originally in an old congested part of the city, but has been moved recently to it's present location on the outskirts of town. I was intrigued by the architecture of the flower complex.

After a little bit of bargaining, I bought a bag of Almonds from this gentleman, who sealed the deal with a handshake. The vendors bargain hard but it is expected, a sort of formality, which takes some getting used to for a westerner like me who is used to set prices.

All the delivery trucks are elaborately painted, this one in particular caught my eye.

These guys are unloading a truck full of bananas, packed in layers of leaves. They are then carried into the market in baskets on the heads of a whole procession of men.

Of course not all the goods come in on motorized vehicles. This delivery person is taking off his shirt after a very hot ride.

A trip to the zoo

Located just outside Chennai is the Anna Zoo, which is billed as one of the best in South Asia. It lives up to that reputation, with natural enclosures and a large display of regional wildlife. The zoo covers over 1200 acres in the hills and is well kept up by Indian standards. A very pleasant place to spend the day, though it would take 2 days to see it all and go on the Lion Safari bus.

We have yet to see working or wild elephants, but they are used, and there are some reserves that would require an overnight trip where you can observe them in the wild.

I have always had in my mind an image of Tarzan's Cheeta of what a chimp looked like, but these guys were the size of a full grown man.

The termite mounds which are abundant around here remind me of the sandcastles they build on the beach every year at Seaside, Oregon.

These women were fascinated with Char and wanted to have their picture taken with the white woman. Judging by their dress, I believe they are not from Chennai. Char and I got a good laugh about these people saying to themselves, "look what we saw at the zoo"! This White Tiger was one of the most impressive animals, as large as a full sized Lion.

Ganesha's birthday

In Southern India, religion for most is a way of life. Around this time of year for the next several months are numerous Hindu holidays that are celebrated. Last week was for Ganesha (the god of success in elephant form). You know it's coming up because you see craftsmen setting up shop literally on the streets with a mound of clay that they mold and shape into hundreds of statues of Ganesha, and the women stringing jasmine and other flowers are unusually busy.





Those who have chosen to worship Ganesha are likely to buy one of these small statues to invite him into their lives and receive the positive things that may come of his visit. He is then taken to the beach covered with garlands of flowers, maybe a parasol or perhaps a wooden raft and a small shrine is set up for him.

This is a big cash day for young boys who are hired to take Ganesha out into the ocean where he is set off on his voyage back home.

People flock to the beach for this event which is a bit carnival like, complete with pony rides, and a hand cranked Ferris wheel. Even the women will enjoy getting tossed in the surf still wearing their Saris.

In the evening bands set up on brightly lit street stages at many of the temples where they play into the night, and floats made of flowers are paraded through the streets.

Mamallapuram

Located just 57km (35 miles) south of Chennai is the town of Mamallapuram. I had heard about the carved temples and bias reliefs, but was not prepared for the number of sights to see. On my short day trip there I was not able to see the main temple on the beach, so we'll be back soon, allowing a few days to explore and get some more pictures. What I did get to visit was an area of large granite outcroppings where you are free to wander. This open air museum is full of carvings and dry fit stone buildings dating back to the 7th century.

It's hard to get a sense of proportion here, but the elephants are life size.

Many of the temples are shallow caves carved right into the granite. Others are partially carved out of the rock with pillars, and huge slab roofs, or dry fit stone walls.

A person could wander for hours through this maze of sculptures, climbing around on steps carved into the steeper inclines. The whole area is open to the public with no restrictions. You can see where countless hands have touched this cow being milked, where people can sit on the calf and have their picture taken.

I don't know the reason, but this balancing rock was placed here by one of the gods (Shiva I believe). The story goes the British where concerned that it was a safety hazard and attempted to pull it down with a team of elephants, but were unable to do so.

Mamallapuram gets it's share of tourists and is also full of stone carvers who want to sell you intricate nick knacks. These guys can be very insistent and follow you around, acting as a guide with the expectation that you will buy something. They think all Americans are rich. After I couldn't shake a young man, I finally got stern and told him to go find some other rich American. That seemed to work. I couldn't resist taking a photo of this mother & youngster who where hanging out on a large transformer tower.

Chennai beaches

Chennai has several beaches. Marina beach is located near city center and the original British fort and dockyards. It is one of the longest beaches in the world and is kept relatively clean. We live apx. 3 km (1.5 miles) from Elliot beach which is a very popular hang out. Unlike American beaches, you don't see many people out sunbathing during the day. In the heat of the day it is just to hot, and the surf and undertow do not allow you to do much more than wade in the water. At dusk however, people swarm to the beach to enjoy enjoy the water and the welcome ocean breeze.

In the mornings there are many small brightly painted fishing boats that head out for the day's catch. Many of the fishermen live in slum dwellings located at the far ends of the beach. No one knows how many, but many fishing families lost their lives in the Tsunami that swept over the beaches in 2004.

The Christian community is not large here, but this open church at Elliot beach was all lit up for Mary's birthday, which is a week long major celebration. They had a public address system large enough for a big rock concert blaring out a very interesting mix of traditional hymns and Indian popular/tradition music.

Another site you see often during the day is men and boys stalking the beach looking for sand crabs. When they spot something they pounce on the spot with their heel and start digging frantically.

This boy and his father are heading off with their bag full.

Char's school

The American International School where Char is teaching is a very impressive new campus that covers grades K-12. The school is growing every year, with a large percentage of Korean students, but there is a real mix from many different countries here. Char has children from Korea, France, Sri Lanka, Finland, Japan, UK, Australia and America.

Char gets to and from school in Murugan's auto rickshaw everyday. We hire him on a monthly basis for 4000 Rs. ($90). A bit steep by local standards, but worth it to have a dependable driver.


The school is built around several open courtyards. This one is just outside Char's classroom.
Char hard at work in her classroom.

Classes are limited to 15-16 students and because there are so many students who are non-native English speakers, each 1st grade teacher has a full time aid.

The school also has a full sized swimming pool, that the staff & spouses get to use.

One of the interesting features of the school is that is was designed to be very self sufficient and the with the environment in mind. This holding pond is where much of the rain water is captured and recycled for irrigation and toilets. The building was also designed to capture the ocean breezes which is greatly appreciated in this hot environment.


Here's a mural on the wall in the elementary playground area.

Even though Char is having to re-learn how to teach 1st grade again, she is getting her feet back on the ground, and many of the changes she was looking for in terms of curriculum, resources, philosophy, support & class size are happening, a much needed change for her.

Shiva on the street corner

This display seemed to magically appear overnight on a nearby street corner. It is obviously telling a Hindu story about the gods. The actual structure is made of stick scaffolding tied together with rope and then covered with yards of starched cloth.

The tricycle is how many of the goods are delivered throughout the city. The one in the above picture is a very high end model that is powered by a tiny chain-saw type motor. Most that you see are human powered and look like they have seen better days.

We are greeted every morning with a new Kolam in front of our neighbor's door. This is one of the first things the Hindu women do in the morning by first washing the entryway down then creating a geometric design with rice flour that they apply by letting it fall in a controlled fashion from their hand, which they execute with amazing speed. I understand this is done to invite the god of prosperity into their house.